Friday 29 June 2012

Hey Mambo, Mambo Italiano...

Sorry to quote such terrible itali-disco no idea what kinda music it is, music title! But I am muchly super duper excited to do the Milan mens round up, it was an absolute corker! I wish I could include every show I love but I would be here for a long long time, I would be like 103 by the time I'd finished... and don't even get me started on Paris! Hubba Hubba is all I can say... more on that next post.

Burberry Prorsum S/S 13







First up is the legendary Christopher Bailey and his offerings at Burberry Prorsum, I was well and truly blown away. This was one of the many shows that made me wish I was a man! I just hope that the women's collections are this covetable, actually no I don't! I will have one empty bank account if they are... Anyway back to the case in point, I simply loved this show. There was an air of Dior Homme circa 2008-2009 to it... Correct me if I'm wrong, but it reminded me of those heady early days of Kris van Asche. This collection was so directional and forward thinking it almost made me a bit sick from joy. I loved the fact that all the models looked like a band made up of Quality Street flavours. I am huge fan of all things shiny, sparkly and/or metallic so Burberry was an utter joy if I say so myself. I loved the tailoring teamed with this crazy foil inspired fandango. The Burberry boy is just so damned cool. Bailey even managed to make the old British geek tradition of 'socks and sandals' a little bit cool with metallic minimal sandals off setting his achingly edgy ensembles. The focus as always was on the outerwear, and the check flashed through in out of place tote bags, but on a whole it was so lovely. I loved the quirky, sixties-esque prints that popped up on tilored shorts and shirts that were all the more quirky teamed with the metallics. If I had to choose I think the pink is my favourite...


Jil Sander S/S 13






Jil Sander knows how to cause a stir! After the lovely Raf bowed out last season the namesake emerged as the successor to Monsieur Simons... I have been looking forward to both the mens and womens Jil shows, not just because I am a total pervert when it comes to this brand (regardless of who is at the helm, i did have a soft spot for Raf though) but because I was intrigued to see what Sander could come up with in such a short space of time (six months is no time people!) and what direction she would take the brand in. I can't say I was surprised by her offering, Jil Sander (along with the Ann Demeulemeester, Dries van Noten and early Miuccia) championed minimalism and the aesthetics of austerity way back in he last recession and she did this with total aplomb. She was celebrated and revered for it, and along with her aformentioned peers to name but a few, was responsible for shaping the whole look of almost a decade, and then Gianni came along and the rest is history. I loved how fabulously minimal this collection was, it was what Jl does best. I especially liked the Piet Mondrian-esque knits, they were very cute and I could see them all over the cute cool boys at Pitti Uomo next season. The primary colours and deconstructed tailoring added a cool and somewhat commercial edge to the proceedings. I don't know why but I felt like there should have been something more, but like I said this is Jil and I knew there wouldn't be... Despite this little niggle in my fashion heart it was simple and stunning all the same.

Marni S/S 13






My favourite thing about about the Marni mens collection is that it so far removed from the aesthetic of the womenswear that it almost feels like a seperate brand sometimes. ThE simple and minimal air that has been prevalent at Milan was present here, which in comparison to womens is almost a wee bit shocking. I love that there is a total focus on the cut, silhouettes and tailoring because of this, and I am a stickler for detail so Marni satisfied my fashion appetite sufficiently. The muted palette was refreshing in comparison to some of the riots of rainbow colour so far in the mens collections, I loved the stripes and the relaxed tailoring mixed with boxy shapes and silhouettes. I loved that there was a little geeky element to it all with the tailored shorts-with-socks-and-shoes thing going on. I am loving the contrasting colours that Marni was rocking, like sky blue cardigans with navy sleenes, pink kagoule with navy pocket, it was all very patchwork and 'paint by numbers' but in a cool dorky boy way. All in all a loverly offering from Marni...

Salvatore Ferragamo S/S 13 






I have saved my absolute FAVOURITE for last, think of it as a Milanese finale if you will... Salvatore Ferragamo was the standout of Milan for me. Simply because it was like a crazy beautiful rainbow of mannish joy! There were pastels, there was orange! It was the whole child like aesthetic of it all, I loved the patch pocket trench coats with white binding trim on the pockets, like a childlike outline. I loved the layering and the printed knits, and the bookish nerdy trainers that came in a multitude of rainbow colour ways which just made me smile. There was skimpy see-through knits that showed off the prints and colourwarys perfectly, and the odd flash of print to keep it ll a bit cray cray... I think the main reason I loved Ferragamo was because the whole thing just summed up the idea of "spring/summer" to me... Bold, fun and not taking yourself too seriously. There were flashes of tomato red which king of gave a feel of something being a little off, and this just did it for me. The loveliest part was how there were flashes of white peeking through in dip dyed tailoring and piping, and as it edged on the white patches grew and then BAM! ALL white baby (and it's not even after Labour Day!) It was like a sartorial bitch slap... and it was the best kind of ending to the most fun show I ever did see. The bags! Oh the bags!!! This collection showed off the leather goods history of the house, I wanted it all, or a boy to wear iT all so I can hang off his arm and twirl him around with pride. I wish all boys dressed like this... A girl can dream!


All images courtesy of style.com

Tuesday 26 June 2012

London Calling....

I was extremely pants wettingly excited to hear that London MAN collections was getting an upgrade and getting a three day fashion week!! Drum roll please... London Collections Men is launched. This has been a long time coming as the boys and girls round London way have in the past only had a day to compete against almost a week that the other capitals have, as well as this scheduling clashes meant that fashion folk had to choose between cities.... Alas the fashion gods got involved and gave little old London three WHOLE days! And my, oh my, were the results worth it! Some of women's biggest players have recently ventured into the unchartered territory of men's, and boy was it worth the gamble....

Topman Design s/s 13






First off height street giants TopMan Design really upped their game, much like hotly anticipated sister collection TopShop Unique, TopMan Design has become a highlight of the men's calendar. For S/S 13 and the first London based men's week the apple of our high street eye proved how relevant they are even for a high street brand. Cerise pink and orange ruled the day, and gave a bold and directional statement on how cool boys should be dressing their bodies. Relaxed tailoring and minimal silhouettes have become the order of the day, and have been seen from Topman to the queen of minimal Jil Sander and right through to Milan big boys Prada and Ferragamo. So if you ask me this look will be what all the well heeled boys will be rocking come summer time. Kicking off with lashings of grey and painterly florals, they threw a curve ball with ombré knitwear and tailored shorts featured heavily. My favourite part was the obvious sportswear influence, with hole punched suede and minimal American football jerseys popping up throughout. This teamed with the relaxed, edgy tailoring and luscious bold florals made for a mouth watering collection, that I would most definitely steal off the boy. It's refreshing to see colour blocking, colour pops and ice cream shades working it for the boys...


J W Anderson s/s 13





Second of my highlights from London was J W Anderson, who is giving Jonathan Saunders and Christopher Kane a run for their money in terms of scots to watch. His women's collection has fast become a 'one to watch' on the women's calendar after a few short seasons, and this collection proved that his men's collections should be just as coveted. Spring Summer next year will be a veritable rainbow if the men's collections are anything to go by and Jonathan (number two) failed to disappoint. What I loved about his menswear was the glaringly obvious avoidance of print that he has become synonymous for in womenswear. I loved the clean lines, directional tailoring and the unavoidable bursts of colour. The bubblegum pink coat made my little heart beat faster, and I so want a lady version!! I loved the slinky tunic and boot cut trouser combos in varying colours, however lilac was my total hubba hubba moment with these two pieces. The devoré lace tunics, and later trousers were out of this orbit for me.... I'm loving this recent foray into slinky cross dressing that has taken forward thinking men by storm of late (see Marc Jacobs in a man dress to the Met Ball, and man skirts at Givenchy, no less!) So all this man lace got me excited! The matching 70s style knitted tunic/cardigan/trouser thingy made me giggle and swoon all at once.... Simply because it'd be soooooo damn comfy...


Jonathan Saunders s/s 13






Now I am a total pervert when it comes to a Jonathan Saunders collection, I have been a big fan of him for many years, and was happy to hear that he had been foraying into menswear for a little while, so I decided to check out what he was offering up for next season, and I was muchly impressed with what I found. I usually like to see a move away from a designers women's collection but in this case the cross dressing man version was just peachy. Saunders has mixed his edgy printed knits and textiles (that he has become the toast of lady fashion land for) with impeccable tailoring and the prints were no less than awesome. Something that I just couldn't expect less from a maverick in this field... I loved the whole exploded pixels feel of the prints, I could imagine some cyber 60s mod boy with side parted hair and fancy loafers rocking them. I loved the way they went from colour, to grey to white, with a flash of black. They made me think of pop art, not fancy mens clothing... And for that I love Jonny Saunders.


E. Tautz s/s 13
THE CAPE!!!!!! 






Patrick Grant's collections for E. Tautz have been on my man raydar for a little while now, mainly because he is one of the driving forces behind the trend for tailoring and dapper men folk that are hard to miss on your local high street these days. My favourite look is without a doubt the opener!!! Cerise. Pink. Cape. It had a strap too!!!!! I want, I need, I will sell all of my favourite vintage collectibles for this! Grant's collection was a breath of fresh air, and one of the sole reasons why the new concept for the men's collections will be putting our lovely capital city on the map. I really liked the boxy, sharp lines that Grant evoked with his tailoring... the acid yellow, coral and aqua that blew up the colour palette were pretty fantabulous too! I liked the way that E. Tautz's dorky boys were the epitome of London cool, especially with the specs knitwear. I love the whole Teddy boy, sixties skinny suiting aesthetic that E. Tautz have got going on. It is great to see some youth, and directional styling being breathed into the whole tailoring and Savile Row scene. I like that that part of menswear is embracing what up and coming, youthful designers have to offer, and how that whole look can be updated. I am particularly loving that the dapper gent is starting to influence how boys are putting themselves to gether everyday, the resurgence of proper shoes and pocket squares is a nice change to denim and oversized jumpers. I also hankering after tailored shorts... I just wish that the common men folk would be daring enough to rock this look. Oh and I have always been a sucker for a double breatsed jacket, there is something so chic about a boy who combs his hair and dresses like his Grandad used to. I think if I was a boy I would be saving all my wages for a piece of the London pie...

all images courtesy of style.com

Tuesday 19 June 2012

Match made in fashion porn...

Spring/Summer 12 defilé collection




Autumn/Winter 12 defilé collection




some deconstructed wonderment
from maison martin margiela... 



magical 'heel stuck in a wedge' shoes...
(get what i mean by the surreal thing?)


much coveted hi top from the a/w collection
every fashion pervert will be wearing these little dancers...


the infamous hoof boot, seen in many incarnations over
the years... next season they are ballet pumps...




To my utter delight last week the Swedish Fashion Gods announced that H&M would be joining forces with Maison Martin Margiela for their next designer collaboration. Now I have no idea what Mr Margiela would have to say on the subject.... I suspect he would be quite horrified and it may involve swear words, but I for one am totally and utterly riddled with excitement. Since I learnt what 'fashion' was and began obsessively researching different designers and their styles Margiela and the rest of the Antwerp Six collective fascinated me greatly. If any of you read pins and needles regularly you'll know I'm no shrinking violet and the word 'eclectic' could on occasion be an understatement, but I am an avid obsessor of all things minimal and surreal... Any of you aware of the Maison Martin Margiela collections will know that "minimal and surreal" on occasion barely even in cover it. I adore the work of designers that approach fashion not only as a commercial way of making loads of dollar covering rich bitches in fancy garms, but those who approach it with a conceptual vision. Those who view it as a form of art, not just things you can wear. It is the reason why I have utmost respect and adulation for designers such as Margiela, but also Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen and Gareth Pugh. You only have to google either of them to understand how they can all be labelled with words such as genius, innovator and ground breaking.

Sadly Margiela walked away from the company in 2009 and little has been heard of him since. The designer has never given a direct interview, simple studio email exchanges have been documented in publications, and some even believe the rumours the 'Martin Margiela' was simply a pseudonym for a studio full of unbelievably talented artisans tricking the fashion world into thinking their collections have been the mastermind of one single person. Diesel owner Renzo Rosso took over majority ownership of the brand, resulting in collections becoming more commercially viable, and the product more widely available. Many believe this in part was a factor in the brand's namesake parting company with the house.

Despite all this, and getting back to subject, I for one will be stockpiling my pennies in anticipation for the launch in November. I will be queuing from the wee hours to get a piece of the HM x Margiela fashion porn action! Much of the product is out of my budget, and isn't available to me locally so I for one will be adding some pieces to my small luxe collection. All hail minimalism... And Swedish collaborations too of course!

all images courtesy of style.com, maisonmartinmargiela.com