Monday, 2 July 2012

It's getting haute in here

Dior Haute Couture Fall 2013

This post is a big old "oooh stick you, your mama too... and your daddy!" to all the haters, doubters and sceptics that questioned whether Raf could do it! Because he did, with little shiny Dior encrusted bells on. I have been most excited and intrigued that Raf Simons was starting off his tenure at Dior with a couture collection, rather than ready-to-wear. Never mind being thrown in at the deep end, they were tossing him into an ocean... he swam! Like an Olympian (sorry can't name any, I am crap with sports)
I never doubted for a second that I wouldn't fall for this collection, I heart Raf and anything he has put his minimal, detailed aesthetic too. 

I simply LOVE LOVE LOVE this collection... Now I am the first to admit I was unsure of where the direction of Dior would go after Galliano's untimely dismissal as he was at the top of his couture game and under him Dior thrived. However, after Raf's shock departure from Jil Sander last season, and after two seasons and many questions and name flinging, when it was announced that Raf would take over the helm at one of the most iconic and original houses in Paris I was delighted. Mainly because I knew that whatever he did would be sofar removed from what Galliano had been doing that I have been wetting my pants (metaphorically, I don't have incontinence dears) with anticipation.

Folk keep whinging on at me about "commercial couture" and all that crap, but if any fashion pervert worth their salt knows anything about the history of Dior, and the namesake himsalf they would know that this collection was so Dior it was basically reeking of Miss Dior, slathered in Addict lippie and swinging so many Lady Dior bags it was virtually quilted. It was just marvellous... I loved the gently corseted dresses, the trousers!!! I never thought I'd see minimal tailoring of the sorts at couture, but it worked so well, especially with the peplum detail corseted tops. I think the intricate beadwork and detail and embroidery showed off the talents of the white coated artisans perfectly... without being too much or over the top. I loved the colour palette, and the fact that everything was so simple. The way that it was all about the form, the silhouette, the craftsmanship... I liked that there was clearly no theme, or anything like that... Just pure, unadulterated forties inspired couture filth. The metal belts, the bursts of colour, the tulle that was as soft and light as clouds or candyfloss. It was just exactly what Dior needed...

Sadly at times it does feel like couture can look commercial, but when customers are paying upwards of 30,000 euros for dresses, more than 1,000 euros for blouses, I imagine you would want a little something that can be worn more than a handful of times... You want more BANG for your buck! I am such a flgrant exhibitionist and non-beleievr of "saving for best" that I would happily drag out couture just for popping out for milk, or meeting the girls for lunch. If I'm spending the equivalent of the price of a car on a dress I will wear it clean the bathroom if I feel like it. The fact that some houses have to pimp out their names onto cosmetics, fragrances, sports wear and accessories to bring in pennies for this dying art form means that they are producing collections that will generate more revenue, not having to rely so heavily on ready-to-wear to foot the bill, I do love the whimsical, dreamy, fantasy fuelled collections, but I for one am a realist and sadly know how little profit some big names make... you only have to note that some of the biggest players rely on huge investments, or take overs by companies such as PPR and LVMH. So for the dreamer in us all, long live couture! Wearable or not...

Now I just need to find me a Texan oil tycoon, or a horrfically huge Russian trust fund and I can get me a little Raf designed couture...

all images courtesy of

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