Wednesday, 23 January 2013

boys boys boys (part deux)

I'm quite getting into the swing of things with this mens collections malarkey, as much as I adore looking at the usual women's offerings because I can technically wear it all, looking at men's is a refreshing take on putting pieces together and seeing what the designers offer up. One of my favourites at the moment is JW Anderson, especially for next season...

I absolutely adore this collection... There are frills. Frilly shorts. Filly boots. Frilly gloves. And bustiers. WITH POCKETS! FOR MEN!!! It is so far removed from anything I have ever seen from a menswear collection, and exactly why it is so directional, and random and unerringly cool. Mainly because it is so not commercial, or wearable and for that I think Jonathan deserves an award, simply for producing a collection that breaks so many boundaries of what is acceptable or normal for men to wear. And that is why it is utter genius, simply because it totally fucks with logic of any kind and makes you questionis it actually menswear at all, and if so should it be considered abnormal or silly to wear frilly boots? No... you should be able to wear whatever the fuck you want. Even if you look like a rather unhinged cross dresser on day release from the local psychiatric hospital.

 Ami, designed by Alexandre Matiussi, has summed up that slinky French style to a t... All louche, relaxed and sharp all at the same time. He has captured that essence, that little something that Parisian style encapsulates and that designers, hipsters and folk on the street desperately try to emulate. And can't. I simply cannot put it into words because there isn't a word for it, the French just well have it. In spades. All French designers seem to have a knack of encapsulating it into a collection for us all to buy and hope that we too can be just as damn cool as they are. Not many can translate it into real life, but those who do just do it perfectly. When I meet my Prince Charming this is exactly how I want him to dress... Not too shabby but not too smart. Polished, chic, elegant and just so. In my head I am some marvellously cool French woman whose man, children house and even pets are achingly cool, gorgeous and fabulous... And the Ami man is my dream boat. Now I just need to find him.

Not content in making Opening Ceremony one of the coolest concept stores to come out of New York, and thank god landing on British soil, Humberto Leon and Carol Kim took on Kenzo as Creative Directors and my, have they made an impact. They have turned the fledgling 70s brand into one of the hottest tickets in Paris, and in the process one of the mot sought after brands of the past year or so... Not only are the well priced tees and sweats flying off shelves but I'm guessing that vintage Kenzo is probably whizzing off eBay and out of shops too. The Lion is once again roaring across the tits of hipster kids and rude boys, and fast being splashed onto outfits of fashion editors and bloggers alike. I am excited to see were Humberto and Carol will wave their magic wands next... Bon Marché? Marks and Spencers?

Topmn Design impresses me more as each season passes, mainly because I simply cannot believe it comes from our humble little high street, and secondly because it is so far removed from its parent company Topman. There are no identikit chinos or slogan tees, just simple, honest, fantastic design. I love that it started off all hiking boots, parkas and off to climb a mountain-esque and finished off with some top notch skinny tailoring via an assault on the senses blast of orange. From observing past collections they tend to follow this bold, brash and somewhat schizophrenic route... But with aplomb. I just love it every season, I especially love the deep red tailoring and orange swirls amidst lashings of thick cream wool. If I was a boy and rather outdoorsy, or just pretty cool, I would rock a whole heap of that. Go Topman!

So there you have it... Some of my man perving for another season...

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