Monday, 23 September 2013

Asian Persuasion

When quizzed about what got him so inspired by Geology for his s/s 14 collection Philip Lim reportedly responded with "standing on solid ground" which is apt I guess... being on this earth can only be a starting point to be inspired by it. Geodes specifically were the main line of inspiration for Mr Lim, and boy am I glad he is loving the sciences this season. As usual I was in love with the whole lot. Lim is well known for being an extremely commercially viable designer and brand, and stores he sells to only praise him for this. But that is what is brilliant, women may flock to buy but this isn't your usual easy-sell product. Season after season it is edgy, chic, wearable but equally really fucking cool. this is no0 Boring Betty stuff, it is aimed to be commercial for women who really DO fashion... he still maintained his sporty ethic that has become his signature, using techy fabrics and stunning embellishment and prints to bring his thematic point the fore of the collection. He used geode prints blown up onto brocade fabrics as well as intricate beading and sequin work, all mixed in with boxy, sporty and chic silhouettes that his brand has become renowned for. 

Alexander Wang proved for me why he is the hottest kid on the block with this collection... I'm a similar age and logo mania was at its height in the 90s when we were growing up, and this collection felt like his ode to the decade which is fast becoming seasonal inspiration in some form or another. When asked about the collection and his inspiration decade he commented "fashion was really fun, when there was wit and humor, and it wasn't so serious." Sadly due to the recession collections have oft become safe and about selling, and less about the creative outlet that fashion has always embodied in my opinion. 
Wang embraced logo mania in a witty, louche, chic and utterly wonderful way... his name was punched into leather, stitched onto fabric and repeated over and over in a silly and audacious way that is just Wang. Other looks embraced his now signature sexniess, and fondness for androgyny and girls wearing their boyfriends clothes in an oversize, sultry way. Oh and that penchant for yuppie tailoring that the early 90s wholeheartedly embraced. I loved that as usual the Wang girl is about girl impressing and man repelling... just what fashion should be about... fun and dressing for yourself and nobody else. 

I have been perving over Jason Wu's collections for many a season and this collection didn't disappoint... Another re-interpretation of the 90s but this is by far one of my favourite takes. It brings back memories of Kate Moss in THAT see through slip dress, young, lithe, whippet thin, barely a bit of make up on her face and a cig in her hand. Fresh faced, fabulous and so cool. Wu's version was a sexed up, glossier and altogether polished idea of this and I love it. If you look closely there are lace corsets under slips and the most stunning hand embroidered fabrics. My favourite idea is these superbly glamorous pieces teamed with mannish jumpers and oversized bikers... almost an element of "walk of shame" about it, but with your head held high and best lipstick on so if you are slinking home you do it with s streak of fabulous and attitude. Which I think is what 90s grunge seems to look like now. A glossier, expensive and edgy older sister of itself. Love. 

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